HB:
And you're gonna make the best thing you know
how to make, cooking, and that's the grub for
everyone, what do you make them?
KL: Let's make, well let's
barbeque. So let's barbeque some tofu.
HB:
Tofu on the barbeque huh? Doesn't it fall through?
KL: Nah, you cut it thick
enough and get the extra firm. Marinade that stuff
for hours.
HB: What do you marinade
it in?
KL: Any kind of teriyaki,
sesame, garlic, onions, chili powder, turmeric,
paprika, basil, and then have a delicious big
old salad (like the kind we made in Hawaii) with
that papaya seed dressing from the North Shore
and feta cheese, cranberries, peaches, candied
walnuts. Some watermelon and corn on the cob for
sure!
HB: Sounds so good! Ok,
later that night things get a little mystical
and everyone's going around giving their philosophy
on life based on what they've learned and experienced.
It comes to your turn, what do you tell them?
KL: I'd just say I just want to be here, I just
want to be happy and optimistic and just be, just
try to exude happiness and try to just spread
joy and be exactly who I want to be and how I
am, which requires letting go I'm realizing, just
letting go and being who you are, and being in
the ocean every day as much as possible - that's
the fountain of youth for sure - not necessarily
everyday but just being around the ocean and enjoying
the fringe of the sea as much as possible.
HB: "Fringe of the
sea", I like that.
KL: Thanks.
HB: So the next day after
the raging party, it's raining, it's onshore,
it's flat, everybody's a little tired, what do
you do to fill the time?
KL: Play some music! Heck
yeah, with all those people? Oh man, we're jamming!
We're waking up, we're making breakfast, a little
tofu scramble with the leftovers from the barbeque.
And yeah, we're singing some songs and getting
over our hangover like that. I mean, of course
a mellower tune. Writing some ballads together.
And then maybe go for a skate with them all.
HB: Launching your music
career with their advice... (laughing) That would
be so sick! Can you imagine the party train on
a skateboard? Bjork?
KL: (laughs) I wonder how
her style would be?
HB: Probably pretty sick!
KL: I wonder if she'd wear
a swan suit?
HB: I don't know but I'd
want to check it out for sure! Um...So, speaking
of a big crew of people. Women's surfing, pretty
crazy times...what do you think of the state of
it and where it is going and where it needs to
be, etc?
KL: It's pretty cool. It's
really cool. We're just all these surfer girls
and we want to be able to get by being surfer
girls and so, kinda making it happen. Things could
definitely be better. We could be getting paid
more money. I guess there's tons of athletes out
there that are following their passions and making
money at it. Not that i think it needs to get
too much more money but it could be supported
a little more and a little more structured and
better off. In doing these interviews, Prue (Jeffries)
and Julie (Cox) have both mentioned surf festivals
and I've been thinking about how cool that would
be. Instead of these contests, making it more
of a festival kinda thing with all kind of different
booths and skating and art and environmental activism
down at the beach. Somehow making that kind of
thing happen more. But with all of us? Yeah, we're
funny man, we're really funny! We try to get together
and talk about what we want but we’re all
so scattered. I don't think there are certain
things that everybody wants. Everyone has different
ideas about how they want to make a living surfing
maybe? I don't know if I'm answering this question
very good.
HB: It's all about getting
your opinion. Whatever part you choose to expound
upon.
KL: I personally would be
stoked to do, after a couple years of competing,
I can't imagine wanting to do it too long, doing
more trips for magazines...
HB: ...that exist where?
KL: Let's get some more
magazines here people, some publications! Let's
work on that. Let's get some more contests around,
or like festival kind of things in different places.
And I don't know. Um.....that's about it.
HB: JettyGirl is pretty
cool. At least there is someone stepping up to
represent and showcase the women. How'd you get
involved with that?
KL: Chris Grant, a photographer
who does Boardfolio.com. I was shooting with him
for a little while and he came to me and said
he had this idea for JettyGirl - this website
- he said, "you know I've had this website
reserved but I just haven't done anything with
it yet. Would you want to interview some surfer
girls for it?" And I said "heck yeah!
I love interviewing people." So, he asked
me to interview a different surfer girl every
month and showcase them and type it up and he
posts it with some video clips and that. So, it's
pretty cool. I'm really stoked to be a part of
it and feel super lucky that somebody came to
me and said, "this is easy, let's pick a
girl and let’s do it." I'm stoked.
Thanks be to Chris!
Kyla Langen
Interview | 1
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