So what do you like most about surfing?
KM: I like being in the ocean, and cruising across
waves. I could easily picture myself just bodysurfing
or bodyboarding. Something about riding waves
just feels good, feels right.
Does that seem random to you, being obsessed with
KM: Not when you think that 70% of the earth is
water, and what, 60% of our bodies are water?
I think that has to do with my obsession with
the ocean. I feel that as human beings we are
all drawn to water.
Who are your surfing heroes?
KM: Probably the Malloys. They seem like they
have a cool thing going with Patagonia
and that. And Kyla Langen, 'cause she's down to
earth and rips. And, well, Kelly Slater, 'cause
he's the ultimate best surfer in the world I think,
as far as his capabilities.
If you could do any trick that you can't yet do,
what would it be?
KM: Huge airs.
Describe your perfect day
KM: Wake up suuuuper early, before sunrise, have
a cup of tea and a light breakfast, then get in
the water as the sun is rising. Surf a hollow,
long right with a bunch of my good friends, then
go eat a burrito somewhere, all organic and healthy.
Then have some chill time, maybe do a little gardening,
then go surf again. Come out and go hike in the
wilderness, to a lookout where we can watch the
sunset. Then go down to the beach and have a big
'ole bonfire and potluck with friends. Laugh and
have good conversations, then fall asleep on the
Nice, is that maybe also your typical day?
KM: Whoa, wow, maybe so. That's lucky.
Alright, now for some true or false….Watching
TV is a waste of time.
Jungle juice is better than one soda alone.
KM: True! Mix it up!
Eyeliner makes you hot.
Kim Mayer Interview
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