KL:
You're doing the contest at Pipeline? You nervous?
HB: I'm so scared. I am. I think about it when
I'm duckdiving most. Like I'll be duckdiving a
little wave, but it dumps hard, and kinda knocks
you around and maybe I come up with my hair in
my face, kinda out of breath, and I'm like, that
was a 2 foot wave at Oceanside, I'm gonna go surf
Pipeline?! I'm gonna die! But you gotta push yourself.
KL:
Where were the biggest waves you've surfed?
HB: I towed-in in Tahiti. I was there on a trip
with Rochelle Ballard, Megan Abubo, Jodi Nelson,
and Jim Russi and the waves were huge, I was scared
every session pretty much, and it just got too
big and there were a few days where we didn't
surf and Jim Russi eventually said "look,
we're getting paid to get photos, let's get photos,
you girls are gonna have to learn how to tow-in."
So we went out one day to this right and it was
kinda sketchy, but you know, we got a couple waves,
and then the next day we went to this left that
in photos everyone thinks it's Teahupoo, but it's
a little bit down the way. Not as perfect as Teahupoo,
but still heavy. It was unreal, one of the best
sessions of my life; in a matter of about 10 minutes
I got the biggest wave, the biggest barrel and
the biggest wipeout of my life, in that order.
It was amazing.
KL:
Who inspires you?
HB: I've actually been inspired by you and Kim
(Mayer) lately. Just because of your free flowing
attitude and the way you show up somewhere like
"yeah, Australia! We don't know where we're
gonna stay, but we're gonna work it out!"
and Kim like "yeah! we’re cruising!
whoo-hoo!" and to everything you say, it's
"sick!" That's so cool. I have a tendency
to be kinda negative and serious, and need everything
really planned out. Maybe it would be good for
me to take a page out of your book and just cruise
every now and then.
KM:
Well I'm flattered. Let's end on that. Shout 'em
out!
HB: Scott Daley for believing in me even though
I don't always. My dad for supporting me since
the beginning. To my mom for finally coming around
some, my sisters for inspiring me and to Ryan
for all the reasons he already knows.
Story & Interview by Kyla Langen; Photography
by Chris Grant
