JettyGirl: A one million
dollar check arrives in your mailbox with a
note that reads, "Half of this amount is
yours and the other half is to benefit the world
around you." How would you spend the money?
Jill Hansen: With
the first $500,000 I would give back to my home
state. Hawaii has the #1 unemployment rate,
the #1 teen pregnancy rate, the #1 high school
dropout rate and the #1 drug use rate (from
what I was told recently). I would donate and
participate in the implementation of relief
foundations for the unfortunate, underprivileged
and struggling people of Hawaii. I have a passion
for the Islands (where I'm from) and would give
back to the community there in any way I could.
I
would invest a little first off. With the second
half, it would be 10 friends, 10 perfect waves,
a film project. (So we would fly my gf who is
also a videographer with us). Canvas, paints,
a few additions to the family quiver, and stock
the fridge with great food. Have a celebratory
meal of course ...and then just go surfing and
forget we even have the money!
JG: Describe the best surfboard
you've ever ridden and why it was special to
you.
Jill: The Dick
Brewer fish I came up on recently. It was basically
a gift from the sea. It's a classic original
80's twinny swallow tail. 5'10" (perfect
size) beak nose flat deck no rocker....lil'
NUGGET! Some girl was whomping shorebreak north
side of the pier in Oceanside when my mouth
dropped. I ran up and traded a waterlogged DANO
quad fin and gave her 50 bucks for it. She said
her uncle found it at a garage sale for $25,
so she scored, and I scored. Win-Win. Board's
worth probably a G or more! Since then, Joel
Tudor took fin templates of it and Benji Weatherly
asked, "Ok Jill, how much do you want for
it?" I told 'em I'm having too much fun
to sell it. Honestly, it was like a gift from
the sea!
JG: If you could travel
back to any time in history and hang with one
person while they go about their daily activities,
who would it be and why?
Jill: My Uncle
Tommy Anglin. He was a professional surfer back
in his day. He was also an insanely talented
artist. He unfortunately took his life before
I met him ...but I feel like there are parallels
between our passions.
JG: For thirty days you're
stuck on a desert island with one book, one
song, one surf movie and one snack food. Which
ones would you choose?
Jill: The Bible.
Bob Marley's Redemption Song. Free
& Easy. Chocolate.
JG: What is your best surf-related
memory of 2009?
Jill: Surf'n with
all our buddies at San O all summer. Oh, and
every day that I go surfing and other women
are inspired by my wetsuits. It's a perpetual
stoke. Stokes them out, which in return stokes
me out. It's a pretty righteous, contagious
thang.
