| JettyGirl:
While faltering economies, political turmoil and
energy issues dominated most of the headlines
during the past year, much of 2008's good news
slipped through the cracks. What's the best thing
that happened to you in 2008 and what are you
most hopeful for in 2009?
Heather Hudson Crummer:
I am a "glass is half full" kind of
gal, so I choose not to get dragged down by the
pessimists. The best thing personally is that
my family is healthy and happy, and I get to surf
often! I am also in the final stages of producing
a new independent women's surf documentary with
my co-producer Peck Euwer. It's titled, "The
Women and the Waves" and features 10
women ranging in age from 64 (Linda Benson) to
17 (Rachel Harris). It's been two years in the
making and I am really excited about it!
I
am looking forward to a great 2009. Our movie
premieres at the Santa Barbara International Film
Festival at the end of January. I am also looking
forward to lots of positive energy and good changes
in our world.
JG: Tell us about the first
time you ever stood up on a surfboard. Where was
it and what were you riding?
HHC: It was the summer
of 1978. I rode an old, borrowed log at First
Point, Malibu. My family had recently moved to
the area. I tagged along with my new boyfriend
and his friend to the beach. I was sitting on
my beach towel wearing my cute little bikini and
Hawaiian Tropic tanning oil. It was a really small
day, not big enough to shortboard so, my boyfriend
and his friend asked the older guys if they could
borrow their longboards. I remember watching him
glide across those beautiful waves and I thought
to myself, "I can do that!!" (I was
a competitive swimmer, I snow skied and water
skied.) When he got out of the water I asked him
if I could try. After my first wave I was hooked
and knew I would always surf!
JG: What is your current
favorite board? In 2009 do you have any plans
to experiment with different surfboard designs,
materials or fin configurations?
HHC: My favorite
board is my 9'0" Velzy singlefin, pintail.
I love the glide and it's perfect for my favorite
break. I exclusively shortboarded until I moved
to Santa Barbara in 1995. My two sons were little
and at that time I could only surf on Sunday mornings.
I wanted to surf all year ‘round whether
it was knee-high or overhead. So riding a longboard
made sense for me. I got hooked on it. I love
it! I rode a 9'4 Donald Takayama tri-fin in Mainland
Mexico last spring when we were shooting for the
film. It was really fun... I'd like to look into
one of those!!
JG: Do you have any heroes?
If so, who and why?
HHC: Rell Sunn is
one of my heroes. She had amazing strength. She
was so graceful in the water and embodied the
spirit of aloha, which I try to live every day.
(It can be hard sometimes!!) The documentary "Heart
of the Sea" by Charlotte Lagarde and Lisa
Denker is so inspiring to me. It is one of many
documentaries that influenced me to make "The
Women and the Waves." I want to show surfing
from the feminine perspective, something that
we don't get to see enough of…
Marge
Calhoun is my new hero! She is in her 80's now.
She was at the forefront of women's surfing; one
of the pioneers with the classic style. I spoke
with her on the phone last month about our film.
I loved hearing her comment on how she tried different
things like surfing and skydiving because she
"wanted to know how it felt." Back in
the day, that was awesome for a woman!!
JG: In 2009 we'll see the
best single maneuver ever done by a female surfer.
Who do you think will pull the move and what do
you think it will be?
HHC: Oh my gosh,
that is a good question and I have no idea! I
just love watching them surf! I love seeing strength
and grace at the same time. When I see what the
women are doing today it blows me away. What great
role models for the young girls just starting
out. I love that the younger ones don't see themselves
as different than the boys. They just go for it!
For those of you who like to
jump around instead of going one by one, here's
the complete list of surfers...
Image
Caption: Heather Hudson Crummer and her friend
Peck Euwer are the midst of finalizing a film
documenting the female surfing experience. The
film "The Women and the Waves" will
premiere at the Santa Barbara Film Festival later
this month. Heather and Peck are both awesome
people and have put their hearts and souls into
the making of this movie. We wish them all the
best of success! Photo (framegrab): Peck Euwer
/ swellpicturesinc.com
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