It seems wholly appropriate in this strangest of seasons to mix it up a bit. One day the water temp is bikini-worthy and a few hours later a fullsuit and booties are necessary. Similarly, the surf itself has proven to have multiple personalities with swell firing in one spot and nonexistent everywhere else.
On the day before this I swam out at this spot and it was warm, firing, and empty …but not very surfable. Later that day as I was reflecting on the morning session, I remembered that my good friend from Hawaii, Kamalehua Keohokapu, used to bodyboard before she picked up longboarding. A few messages back and forth and we made plans to leave our surfboards at home, grab bodyboards, and hit it early before she headed off to the hospital where she works.
Although the swell dropped overnight, we were still greeted with glassy peaks and sunny conditions. Laughs, smiles, and barrels ensued and it was a refreshing reminder to me that whatever surfcraft we happen to be riding, there’s no better way to start your day than by being in the ocean. Here are a few photos from the session.
Photos: Chris Grant / Jettygirl.com
DaFin Swim Fins – The Official Swim Fin of the United States Lifesaving Association since 2006. Developed in Hawaii, DaFin Swim Fins are used by many of the top lifeguards, body surfers, bodyboarders and watermen (and women) around the world. Features a comfortable foot pocket and a balanced double density rubber construction for the perfect “snap” with each kick.
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