Words and Photos by Hayley Gordon – leashless.tv
We have arrived at the airport in Mexico and our ride isn’t there. We eat a random selection of food at the airport restaurant and crack our first Mexican beer, then order a taxi to our destination. Boards stacked high we arrive under cover of darkness, greeted by the rhythmic sound of surf.
Adjusting to time here is difficult. With no phones and no watches we count time by waves, sessions, naps, tacos, and beers. It takes an adjustment; the mind is constantly searching for a schedule. Things slow down and I find that I can truly relax with a book without checking my phone every 5 minutes.
The house is a revolving door as our crew surfs, takes a break for some water and a bite to eat, and heads back out for more.
It’s amazing to actually be too hot in the water. As someone who is always cold even in the summer and in places like Puerto Rico and Hawaii, it’s a luxury I don’t get very often. It’s sweltering during the day, and brutal standing on the beach with a camera. Mornings and evenings are the only respite. Thankfully the second day brought a steady breeze.
The peeling lefts give us an empty canvas to play on. They are so long that everyone has started to get out of the water and walk up the beach to get back out.
The waves have gradually gotten a bit smaller, but the mechanical lefts keep coming in. We’ve switched to smaller wave gear, and my shortboards are sitting lonely in the house.
Afternoons are reserved for naps, reading, and listening to music on the balcony. Today one of the locals got us coconuts from a nearby field, and they were absolutely delicious.
The evening brings a string of intense lightning storms that put on a show all night.
Unfortunately the surf begins to dwindle, and we turn our sights beyond our home base to explore the nearby coast. Our new friend Josh offers to drive a few miles south towards a beach town filled with luxurious beachfront homes and a beautiful coast with alternating rock-reef and sandbar breaks.
We paddle out at a promising looking sandbar, but the surf proves fickle and difficult, and more than a bit sharky. Still the crew managed to get a bunch of waves before a huge baitball appeared in the lineup. Some of us onshore saw dolphins pursuing it, but we also saw a fin that looked a bit more shark-like than dolphin-like, and Jake and Manny paddled in as fast as they could.
The surf dwindled even further this day, and so we set our sights on exploring the coast to find yet another break that is notoriously a bit hard to find. We missed the first turn and drove miles in the wrong direction before finding the correct route. The dirt road had been ravaged by recent rains, and it took a while to navigate the pits and bumps. More than a few times our stack of nine surfboards nearly flew from the roof of our Jeep.
Once we reached the break we were greeted with an empty lineup and perfectly clean peeling waves. The only problem was the waves were miniature, suitable only for a longboard. The crew did the best they could to wring as much fun from the surf as they could before relaxing under the canopy at the little restaurant on the beach run by a grandma and her family. Although the surf wasn’t as stellar as we had hoped, we could see the potential for amazing surf at this spot.
Our last day we were hoping the see the beginnings of a new swell filling in, but the morning greeted us with dribblers crumbling on the point. Unfortunately the swell did not arrive early as we had hoped, so we set about packing our boardbags and getting ready for the journey home. The funniest thing about traveling with a group of surfers is trying to wrangle all the boardbags, and we had more than a few curious onlookers at the airport.
We left Mexico with tans, great memories, and a great time together. We didn’t quite get the stellar surf we were hoping for, but a week in paradise with your friends is something that will be looked back on with fondness for the rest of our lives. -Hayley
*Notes from the jetty…
Please check out Hayley Gordon’s leashless.tv to view her groundbreaking surf and skate films.
Leashless.tv – films and images by Hayley Gordon
Hayley Gordon @hayley_gordon
Margaux Arramon-tucco @margause
Jake Zylstra @andjake
Anna Ehrgott &annaehrgott
Sarica Carlquist @sarica_carlquist
Manny Caro @swallowtailsociety
Christine Brailsford @whomphandplanes
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